The U.S. denim industry has a storied history, starting with the first denim mills in the 19th century. Over the decades, the country has been home to some of the most iconic denim producers, leading the way in quality, innovation, and authenticity. But in today’s globalized market, you might wonder — are there still any denim mills operating in the US?

Yes, there are denim mills in the U.S., and the industry is experiencing a resurgence. While many large-scale denim production operations have moved overseas due to cost considerations, several key players are still manufacturing high-quality denim in the U.S. These mills focus on premium, sustainable production, including selvedge denim, raw denim, and organic cotton options that cater to fashion-forward brands, luxury labels, and niche markets. U.S. denim mills, particularly those in the Southern states, are known for their heritage craftsmanship and innovative dyeing techniques that continue to set trends in the global denim market.

Story: When a California-based fashion brand switched from overseas mills to Cone Mills in North Carolina for their premium denim, they noticed a 30% improvement in their product’s fade quality and received overwhelmingly positive customer feedback about the “authentic” feel. This shift also aligned with their brand’s focus on sustainability, as U.S.-made denim allowed them to reduce their carbon footprint.

Understanding where denim is made and how its production process impacts cost and quality is crucial for sourcing managers, designers, and brand owners looking to select the right denim for their collections. In this article, we’ll dive deep into U.S. denim mills, explore their historical roots, and examine how they compare to international options in terms of pricing, production methods, and sustainability.

1. What Is the History of Denim Mills in the US?

The history of denim mills in the U.S. is intertwined with the development of denim fabric itself. Denim manufacturing in the U.S. began in the late 19th century, during the California Gold Rush, when Levi Strauss partnered with tailor Jacob Davis to produce durable work pants for miners.

Evolution of U.S. Denim Manufacturing

● Early Beginnings: The Birth of Denim in the U.S.

• In 1873, Levi Strauss & Co. revolutionized workwear by patenting the process of riveting denim pants, which became popular among miners, farmers, and workers.
• Early denim production was primarily focused on durability and utility, but as the 20th century progressed, denim began to be associated with fashion and youth culture.

● Denim Mills in the 20th Century

• By the 1930s and 1940s, the U.S. had established several key denim mills, including Cone Mills in North Carolina and Wrangler Mills in the South.
• Cone Mills became famous for producing selvedge denim, which has remained a hallmark of high-quality denim to this day.

● Decline and Resurgence

• From the 1980s to the early 2000s, denim manufacturing in the U.S. declined significantly, with many mills relocating overseas to cut costs. Countries like China, India, and Pakistan became dominant players in global denim production.
• However, in recent years, sustainable practices, premium craftsmanship, and local production demands have sparked a resurgence of U.S.-based denim mills, especially in North Carolina, Alabama, and Georgia.

● Modern-Day Denim Manufacturing

Today, U.S. denim mills produce a range of fabrics, including selvedge, raw, recycled, and organic cotton denim. Brands that prioritize heritage craftsmanship and ethical production increasingly seek out U.S.-based mills for their quality and transparency.

2. Which States Are Known for Denim Manufacturing in the US?

Several states in the U.S. are known for their rich denim manufacturing history and continue to be hubs of production today. Particularly, states in the Southern U.S. — such as North Carolina, Georgia, and Alabama — are home to some of the most renowned denim mills.

Key Denim Manufacturing Regions in the U.S.

● North Carolina: The Heart of U.S. Denim Heritage

• Cone Mills, located in Greensboro, North Carolina, was one of the oldest and most iconic denim mills in the U.S. before it closed its doors in 2004.
• Despite the decline, North Carolina remains a denim manufacturing hub, with several smaller mills preserving the selvedge denim tradition.
• North Carolina is also home to denim designers and fabric suppliers who work closely with brands looking to create premium, handcrafted denim.

● Georgia: A Major Denim Player

• Georgia has historically been home to the world’s largest denim producer, Milliken & Company, which pioneered high-quality denim manufacturing.
• Today, Georgia hosts several mills focused on mass production, sustainable fabrics, and fashion-forward denim collections.

● Alabama: Sustainability and Innovation

• Alabama is known for combining traditional denim techniques with innovative sustainable practices.
• The Alabama Denim Company and Sewell Manufacturing are examples of mills producing premium denim with an emphasis on recycled fibers and organic cotton.

● Other Notable States

• South Carolina and Tennessee have also developed smaller-scale denim mills specializing in niche markets, such as selvedge and raw denim.

An emerging eco-conscious brand sourced sustainable denim from a North Carolina-based mill, featuring a 13oz raw selvedge fabric made from 100% organic cotton. Their commitment to local production allowed them to market the “Made in the USA” story, which resonated strongly with their eco-conscious clientele.

3. How Does US-Made Denim Compare to Imported Denim in Terms of Quality?

U.S.-made denim is often regarded as superior due to its heritage craftsmanship, use of high-quality raw materials, and traditional production methods. While imported denim can be more affordable, U.S. mills excel in fabric consistency, durability, and sustainability.

Evaluating the Quality of U.S.-Made vs. Imported Denim

● Durability and Performance

• U.S.-made denim tends to be more durable, primarily due to the use of ring-spun yarns and selvedge weaving. The slower, more meticulous production process allows U.S. mills to create fabrics that are more resistant to wear and fading, and which show a more personalized aging process.
• Imported denim, particularly from countries with mass production like China or India, may not have the same level of durability. Often, these mills use open-end yarns or quicker weaving methods, which can result in a looser weave, more prone to pilling and less refined fading.

● Dyeing and Finishing

• U.S. mills often use indigo rope dyeing, a more labor-intensive method that allows for more even dyeing, creating denim with rich, deep colors and better fade characteristics. The focus is on authenticity and quality control.
• Imported mills may use faster, cheaper dyeing methods like slasher dyeing, which results in uneven dye absorption, causing denim to fade unevenly and wear down faster over time.

A luxury brand sourced selvedge 14oz denim from Cone Mills in North Carolina. The customer appreciated the vibrant indigo and smooth texture, and the denim faded uniquely with each wear. In comparison, their previous denim sourced from an overseas mill showed premature wear and an inconsistent fade, costing them higher returns.

● Sustainability and Ethical Considerations

• U.S. denim mills are more likely to adhere to strict environmental regulations. Brands that prioritize ethical production will often choose mills that use natural indigo, organic cotton, and have transparent supply chains.
• Imported denim may not always meet these same standards, with some mills lacking certifications such as GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) or OEKO-TEX® for fabric safety.

When sourcing denim for a high-end sustainable brand, U.S.-made denim provides added peace of mind for consumers who prioritize environmental concerns. It also adds value to your product’s storytelling — a critical factor for luxury consumers.

4. Are There Any Well-Known Denim Mills Still Operating in the US?

Yes, there are still a few well-known denim mills operating in the U.S., particularly in the Southern states. These mills continue to produce high-quality denim with a focus on craftsmanship, sustainability, and innovation.

Iconic U.S. Denim Mills and Their Contribution to the Market

● Cone Mills (Now Closed, But Still Legendary)

• Cone Mills, particularly their White Oak Plant in North Carolina, was one of the most renowned denim producers in the U.S. until it ceased production in 2017.
• Legacy: Cone Mills produced premium selvedge denim for brands like Levi’s, Wrangler, and Ralph Lauren for over a century, setting the standard for high-quality denim.
• Impact: The White Oak selvedge denim is still considered the gold standard, and many brands still source deadstock denim from the mill for exclusive collections.

● Carolina Denim Mills (North Carolina)

• Carolina Denim Mills focuses on producing 100% cotton and 100% organic cotton denim.
• Known for their ethical and sustainable practices, Carolina mills produce premium denim in small batch runs, with a focus on heritage and quality.
• Partnerships: They collaborate with brands that value both the authenticity and local production aspect of U.S. denim.

A small boutique denim brand partnered with Carolina Denim Mills to create a raw 12oz indigo denim line. The brand highlighted the local sourcing and handcrafted quality, which helped them connect with a conscious consumer base and increase their margins by 25%.

● Cone Denim’s Rebirth under the New Management

Although Cone Mills closed, Cone Denim was later revived under new management in Mexico, continuing to serve global brands.

• New Facilities: Cone Denim now produces high-quality fabrics that adhere to the legacy brand’s standard of craftsmanship, including selvedge and raw denim.
• Global Impact: Still used by brands such as Wrangler and Lee, the revival of Cone Denim ensures that U.S.-made denim remains relevant in the global marketplace.

● Other Notable U.S. Mills

• The Denim Mill (Tennessee): Known for high-performance stretch denim used in fashion and workwear.
• Sewell Denim (Alabama): Focuses on custom woven denim with sustainable practices.
• Burlington Industries (North Carolina): Offers a range of woven fabrics including denim, twill, and canvas used by premium brands.

When working with smaller denim mills in the U.S., always ask for fabric samples and certifications to verify that the mill’s products meet your desired specifications. Mills with a heritage focus will often produce limited runs with high attention to quality control.

5. What Are the Advantages of Sourcing Denim from US Mills?

Sourcing denim from U.S. mills offers several advantages, including access to high-quality fabrics, faster lead times, and the ability to support sustainable practices. Additionally, U.S. mills provide better quality control, transparency, and customizability for premium denim collections.

Key Benefits of Sourcing Denim from the U.S.

● High-Quality Fabrics with Superior Craftsmanship

• U.S. mills are known for their heritage craftsmanship, often producing denim with a focus on authenticity, durability, and visual appeal.
• Selvedge denim, a hallmark of U.S. mills like Cone Mills and Carolina Denim, remains highly sought after for its premium finish, clean edges, and stronger, more resilient weave.

● Shorter Lead Times and Greater Transparency

• U.S.-made denim typically has shorter lead times (1–3 weeks) compared to overseas imports (often 6–8 weeks). This is a critical advantage for brands requiring quick turnaround for seasonal collections or just-in-time production.
• U.S. mills provide greater transparency into the production process, including material sourcing and environmental practices, which is essential for ethical sourcing.

● Supporting Local Production and Sustainability

• Sourcing denim from U.S. mills helps brands contribute to the local economy and job creation, aligning with Made-in-USA labels, which are increasingly important to the U.S. consumer.
• Many U.S. mills now focus on sustainable practices, using organic cotton, water-saving dyeing technologies, and recycled fibers to meet growing demand for eco-friendly fashion.

A sustainable brand partnered with Carolina Denim Mills for a 15oz raw selvedge denim collection, which was praised for its fade potential and sustainability. The brand highlighted their decision to support local production, emphasizing the positive environmental impact, and their sales increased by 18% year-over-year.

● Quality Control and Consistency

• U.S. mills maintain a stronger focus on quality control than overseas manufacturers, ensuring consistent fabric quality and minimal defects. This is particularly important for premium brands that rely on consistent fabric performance for customer satisfaction.

Always request samples before committing to large orders. This allows buyers to evaluate fabric weight, feel, and potential issues such as shrinkage, colorfastness, and texture consistency.

6. Are US Denim Mills Offering Sustainable Production Options?

Yes, U.S. denim mills are increasingly embracing sustainable production practices in response to both consumer demand and environmental regulations. Many mills now offer eco-friendly denim made from organic cotton, recycled fibers, and through water-efficient dyeing techniques.

Sustainability Efforts in U.S. Denim Manufacturing

● Sustainable Materials in U.S. Denim Mills

• Organic Cotton: Many U.S. mills use GOTS-certified organic cotton to produce denim, which avoids harmful chemicals and promotes environmental sustainability.
• Recycled Fibers: Some mills are incorporating recycled cotton or recycled polyester into their denim to reduce waste and carbon footprints.
• Water-Efficient Dyeing: Mills like Cone Denim and Sewell Denim have invested in waterless dyeing technologies to reduce water consumption during the dyeing process.

● Eco-Friendly Finishes and Treatments

• Many U.S. mills are minimizing chemical usage in the finishing processes, focusing on enzymatic washes, stone-washing with natural materials, or using ozone technology for a cleaner fade. These processes consume less energy and water than traditional methods.

● Certifications for Sustainability

• OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certification ensures that denim fabrics are free from harmful substances, while GOTS certification guarantees organic practices from farm to fabric. These certifications are essential for brands that prioritize environmental stewardship.

A premium fashion brand, known for its commitment to eco-conscious manufacturing, switched from overseas suppliers to Sewell Denim in Alabama. The move allowed them to produce a line of GOTS-certified organic cotton denim with minimal water usage, gaining customer loyalty and receiving positive media attention for their sustainable practices.

● Innovation in Denim Sustainability

• U.S. mills are also focusing on innovative sustainability practices such as laser finishing, which allows brands to add design elements without using water or chemicals. This process also reduces labor costs, which benefits fast-fashion brands looking to balance sustainability with affordability.

Look for mills that prioritize closed-loop production — where waste materials are either reused or recycled — and carbon-neutral operations to ensure that your denim sourcing is aligned with sustainability goals.

7. What Are the Additional Costs Associated with Sourcing 3 by 1 Denim Fabric?

In addition to the base price of 3 by 1 denim, sourcing from U.S. mills often involves additional costs, including shipping, customs duties, packaging, and certification fees. These factors can significantly affect the total cost of denim fabric.

Hidden Costs When Sourcing U.S. Denim

● Shipping and Freight Costs

• Shipping is a significant cost, particularly for U.S.-made denim, which often needs to be shipped internationally for overseas buyers.
  • Sea freight is the most cost-effective option but comes with longer transit times (typically 4–6 weeks).
  • Air freight offers faster delivery but comes at a much higher price, making it suitable for smaller orders or urgent shipments.

● Customs Duties and Taxes

• U.S. customs duties can vary based on the origin of the denim, its composition, and the importing country’s regulations. For example, the U.S. imposes tariffs on denim from specific countries (like China) but may offer more favorable trade terms with others (e.g., Mexico or Canada under NAFTA).
• For international buyers, customs duties can range from 5–15%, depending on the tariff codes and the destination country’s trade agreements.

Before placing a large order, consult a customs broker to understand the full import duty and tax obligations for denim sourced from U.S. mills. This will help you avoid unexpected costs during the shipping process.

● Packaging and Handling

• U.S. mills often provide specialized packaging to protect the denim during long-distance shipping, which can increase the cost per unit. Mills may also offer packaging options that reflect the premium nature of the denim, such as brand-embossed packaging or eco-friendly materials.

● Certification Fees

• OEKO-TEX® or GOTS certification fees are common for U.S. denim mills offering organic or non-toxic fabrics. These certifications provide assurance of environmental sustainability and consumer safety, but they often come with additional costs.

Be sure to ask if certification fees are included in the price of the denim or if they will be added on top of the base cost. These costs vary significantly depending on the certification process.

8. How Can B2B Buyers Negotiate the Best Price for 3 by 1 Denim Fabric?

B2B buyers can negotiate better pricing for U.S.-made denim by understanding the full cost structure, leveraging volume discounts, and establishing long-term relationships with mills. Building a transparent partnership is key to obtaining competitive prices without compromising on quality.

Strategies to Negotiate Better Prices for U.S. Denim

● Volume Discounts and Long-Term Contracts

• Bulk orders often come with substantial price reductions. U.S. mills may offer volume-based discounts, particularly for orders over a certain threshold.
  • For instance, ordering over 1,000 yards may result in 10–15% off the base price.
  • Negotiating a long-term contract with a mill ensures better pricing and the ability to plan ahead for consistent supply, often resulting in additional discounts.

● Requesting Customizations and Specific Treatments

• Custom finishes, such as stone washing, enzyme washes, or special dyeing techniques, can sometimes be negotiated at a lower cost if included in a large order or pre-negotiated contract.
• If you need specific weights, colors, or patterns, a mill might offer these services at a lower cost for repeat buyers.

When working with mills, clarify your customization needs upfront and ask for bulk order discounts on specialized finishes. Ensure the lead times and costs are clearly outlined in advance.

● Building Long-Term Relationships with Mills

• Developing a long-term relationship with a denim mill can provide better pricing flexibility, faster lead times, and more priority during busy seasons.
• Mills are more likely to offer priority pricing to trusted, recurring clients, especially those who place consistent orders and can guarantee long-term contracts.

● Negotiating Shipping and Packaging Costs

• Since shipping and packaging can significantly impact the total cost of sourcing denim, negotiate lower shipping rates by combining orders with other goods or setting up consolidated shipping through freight forwarders.
• You can also ask for discounted packaging options or bulk packaging, which often reduces the overall cost per yard.

Mastering the Cost of 3 by 1 Denim Sourcing

Sourcing 3 by 1 denim from U.S. mills involves more than just looking at the fabric price per yard. Hidden costs such as shipping, customs duties, and certification fees can impact your final price. However, by understanding these costs and leveraging strategies like volume discounts and long-term contracts, B2B buyers can negotiate competitive pricing without sacrificing quality.

In addition, sourcing from U.S. mills offers advantages like faster lead times, sustainability, and the ability to support local craftsmanship. Whether you are sourcing raw denim, selvedge denim, or organic cotton blends, working with U.S. mills ensures that you get premium, high-quality fabrics tailored to your specific needs.

Work with SzoneierFabrics: Your Trusted Denim Supplier

At SzoneierFabrics, we specialize in premium denim sourcing:

• Custom 3 by 1 denim with GOTS and \*\*OEKO-TEX® certifications
• Low MOQ starting at 100 meters
• Sustainable options using organic cotton and recycled fibers
• Fast sampling and competitive pricing

Ready to source premium 3 by 1 denim for your brand? Contact SzoneierFabrics today for free samples, customized denim options, and a transparent sourcing experience.