The textile industry is undergoing a sustainability transformation—and hemp is often hailed as the crown jewel. It’s antibacterial, biodegradable, grows fast without pesticides, and has excellent durability. But like any fabric, hemp is not perfect. Behind the green halo, there are real-world drawbacks that B2B buyers, apparel designers, and textile brands must consider before choosing hemp for production.

Despite its eco-friendly benefits, hemp fabric has several downsides, including higher cost, coarseness in texture, dyeing challenges, limited supplier base, and performance limitations in certain climates or applications. Understanding these drawbacks is critical for making informed sourcing decisions.

In this article, we’ll go beyond the surface-level marketing claims and provide a deep, balanced view of where hemp falls short, supported by technical data, buyer case studies, and sourcing experience from real factories.

Let’s begin by understanding what makes hemp different from other plant-based fabrics—and why that uniqueness can sometimes backfire in commercial use.

1. What Makes Hemp Fabric Different from Cotton, Linen, or Bamboo in Production and Performance?

Hemp is different from other natural fabrics in how it’s grown, processed, and woven. While its durability and eco-credentials are often unmatched, these same features result in a rougher hand feel, rigid structure, and challenging production conditions compared to more flexible fabrics like cotton or bamboo.

Hemp fabric differs from cotton, linen, and bamboo by being stiffer, less refined, and more costly to process into soft, wearable textiles—especially without blending or chemical softening.

Comparing Hemp with Other Natural Fibers

a. Performance Comparison Table

b. Key Differentiators

• Fiber rigidity: Hemp has a woody core and long fibers that require mechanical beating or chemical retting to soften
• Surface texture: Coarse unless blended or treated
• Natural color: Off-white to beige; bleaching needed for bright colors

c. Case Example: Apparel Brand Feedback

A California-based yoga apparel brand attempted to switch from cotton-lycra to hemp-based jersey for leggings. Test feedback showed:

• “Too stiff and scratchy” on first wear
• “Looks natural but lacks drape”
• They switched to a hemp-modal blend to recover softness and fluidity

Hemp works best when blended for next-to-skin applications.

2. Why Is Hemp Fabric Often More Expensive Than Other Natural Fibers?

Hemp fabric is often 1.5–2× more expensive than conventional cotton and 20–40% more costly than linen. This is due to limited supply chain maturity, processing challenges, low-scale farming, and certification costs—all of which increase overheads for manufacturers.

Hemp fabric costs more due to complex fiber extraction, less automation, limited regional cultivation, and smaller global processing capacity compared to mature fabrics like cotton or polyester.

Why Hemp Isn’t Cheap (Yet)

a. Cost Comparison Table (2024–2025 FOB pricing)

b. Factors That Increase Hemp Fabric Cost

• Fewer processing mills worldwide (mostly in China, India, Romania)
• Manual or enzyme-based degumming instead of large-scale chemical systems
• Mechanical softness treatment adds extra labor/steps
• Organic certification and traceability add fees (GOTS, OCS, etc.)

c. Real Buyer Insight: Sustainable Bag Startup

A UK-based hemp backpack brand wanted GOTS-certified hemp canvas. They received quotes from two suppliers:

• China: \$5.80/m, 1000m MOQ, 20-day lead time
• Europe (Romania): \$9.00/m, 300m MOQ, 35-day lead time The higher EU price included farm traceability, GOTS label, and carbon reporting. They chose China but gave up certification for the first run.

Buyers must weigh eco-marketing value vs. raw cost when sourcing hemp.

3. What Comfort or Softness Limitations Does Hemp Fabric Have in Apparel Use?

While hemp fabric excels in breathability and strength, its stiffness and coarseness in raw form make it less comfortable than cotton, bamboo, or modal—especially in next-to-skin garments like t-shirts, underwear, or leggings. Without blending or advanced finishing, hemp can feel rough or rigid to consumers accustomed to soft, stretchy textiles.

Hemp fabric feels stiffer and rougher than cotton or bamboo, making it less suitable for direct-contact clothing unless blended with softer fibers or chemically softened.

Comfort Concerns in Hemp Garments

a. Why Hemp Isn’t Naturally Soft

• Hemp fibers are long, woody, and have a high lignin content
• It resists natural drape and requires enzyme or mechanical softening
• Lacks natural elasticity, so garments may feel restrictive

b. Comfort Score Comparison (1–10 scale)

c. Real-World Feedback: T-Shirt Brand Testing

A U.S. apparel startup trialed 100% hemp tees with no blend. Consumer reviews highlighted:

• “Great color but feels like a sackcloth”
• “Softened after 6 washes, but still not as comfy as cotton” After re-engineering to a 60/40 hemp-organic cotton blend, repurchase rate rose 33%.

d. Solutions for Improved Comfort

• Blend hemp with organic cotton, bamboo, modal, or lyocell
• Apply enzyme washes, silicon softeners, or calendaring during finishing
• Target use for outerwear or structured items instead of inner layers

4. Does Hemp Fabric Shrink, Wrinkle, or Fade More Easily Than Other Fabrics?

Yes—hemp fabric can shrink, wrinkle, and fade, especially if it is not pre-washed or if it lacks surface finishing treatments. It behaves more like linen than cotton in this regard, and untreated hemp may wrinkle aggressively when worn or packed, affecting product aesthetics and customer satisfaction.

Hemp fabric is prone to wrinkling and moderate shrinkage, and it may fade under prolonged sunlight or frequent washing, unless pre-treated or blended.

Fabric Stability & Care Issues

a. Hemp vs Other Fabrics: Performance Table

Based on SzoneierFabrics’ internal lab testing and ISO 6330 care simulations.

b. Common Complaints in Retail Use

• “Fabric feels stiff after washing”
• “Item shrank by 5–8% even in cold water”
• “Color faded after 3 sun-drying cycles”
• “Wrinkles easily in luggage or shelf display”

c. How to Minimize These Issues

• Use pre-shrunk or enzyme-washed hemp for apparel
• Opt for blends (e.g. hemp/viscose) to improve wrinkle resistance
• Apply UV-stable dyes and resin finish for anti-crease
• Include care instructions (e.g. cold wash, line dry, light steam)

d. Buyer Story: Australian Resortwear Label

The brand sourced lightweight 100% hemp dresses for its summer line. Within 2 months:

• Returns increased due to “excessive creasing”
• Customers in tropical climates complained about “faded patches”
• After switching to hemp-rayon blend and adding garment-washing, complaints dropped 65%

100% hemp is not ideal for unstructured, high-wear apparel unless properly stabilized.

5. Are There Any Challenges in Dyeing or Printing on Hemp Textiles?

Yes. Hemp fibers are highly absorbent and porous, which makes them excellent for deep, rich dye uptake—but also difficult to control. Because of their variable fiber surface and natural oils, hemp fabrics can result in uneven dye penetration, color bleeding, and inconsistent shade matching, especially in bulk production. This is further complicated by the fact that hemp is often blended with other fibers.

Hemp fabric can be difficult to dye and print consistently due to its natural oils, fiber density, and tendency to react unpredictably with synthetic dyes or pigment prints.

Why Dyeing Hemp Isn’t Straightforward

a. Key Dyeing Challenges

b. Printing Problems on Hemp

c. Real Case: T-shirt Printer Feedback

A Canadian printer tested 100% hemp tees using pigment-based designs:

• Print looked vibrant initially
• After 3 washes, 40% of print flaked
• Customer satisfaction dropped—switched to discharge printing with softener pre-wash

d. Solutions for B2B Brands

• Work with mills offering pre-treated hemp (e.g. scoured, enzyme-washed)
• Use reactive or natural dye over pigment
• Add a binder or mordant if using plant-based color systems
• Always test dye lots before bulk production

6. What Are the Sourcing and Supply Chain Challenges with Hemp Fabric?

While the popularity of hemp fabric is growing, its supply chain is still fragmented, under-regulated in some regions, and limited in certified capacity. Compared to cotton or polyester, hemp has fewer active growers, fewer processors, and less global infrastructure—especially for GOTS or OEKO-TEX-certified output.

Hemp fabric faces sourcing challenges including limited certified suppliers, inconsistent MOQ options, longer lead times, and complex logistics, especially outside China and India.

The Reality of Hemp Fabric Supply Chains

a. Global Supply Constraints

b. Common B2B Sourcing Complaints

• “Can’t find a certified supplier with MOQ below 1,000m”
• “Lead times are always delayed during harvest cycles”
• “Factory couldn’t provide consistent weight per roll”
• “Documentation missing for GOTS audit”

c. Hemp vs Cotton: Supply Chain Comparison

Textile Exchange, ITMF survey, 2023

d. Buyer Story: U.S. E-commerce Brand Struggles to Scale

An eco-focused U.S. brand sourcing hemp-twill bags from India struggled with:

• Poor documentation during customs
• Rejected OCS claim due to inconsistent fiber origin tracking
• Late shipments due to flooding near mill region Eventually they moved to a Chinese mill with better QC systems and reliable ETD tracking

7. Is Hemp Fabric Suitable for All Climates, Product Types, or End-User Needs?

Not always. Hemp fabric performs exceptionally in hot, dry climates thanks to its breathability and UV resistance—but it may underperform in cold, wet, or high-humidity regions, especially if it hasn’t been treated or blended. Its rigidity also makes it a poor choice for certain product categories like performance sportswear, innerwear, or soft kidswear.

Hemp fabric is not universally suitable—it works well in hot weather or structured products, but has limitations in cold climates, wet conditions, and next-to-skin comfort applications.

Where Hemp Works—and Where It Doesn’t

a. Climate-Based Performance

b. Product-Type Suitability Matrix

c. Real Brand Example: Canadian Outerwear Label

A cold-climate apparel company prototyped a hemp-parka shell:

• Customers complained it “felt stiff and unlined”
• Hemp absorbed water and dried slowly They later moved to a hemp-polyester blend with DWR finish, improving both warmth and water repellency.

8. How Can Brands Overcome Hemp Fabric’s Drawbacks Through Blends or Finishing?

The good news is: most downsides of hemp fabric can be resolved or mitigated through strategic blending, advanced finishing processes, or better design choices. Many top brands now use hemp not as a standalone fiber, but as a key component in hybrid textiles that maximize its benefits while minimizing its flaws.

Brands can overcome hemp fabric limitations by blending it with cotton, lyocell, or bamboo, and using mechanical or chemical softening, pre-shrinking, and UV-resistant coatings.

Optimization Strategies for Hemp Textiles

a. Blending Options That Improve Hemp Performance

b. Finishing Techniques That Fix Common Issues

c. Brand Case Study: Premium Yoga Line

A wellness brand launched a hemp-activewear line using:

• Hemp-Tencel blend for softness
• Anti-odor and 4-way stretch finish
• Seamless thermal bonding They charged 15% premium over cotton equivalents—and sold out in 6 weeks.

d. Why Partnering with an Experienced Factory Matters

At SzoneierFabrics, we:

• Offer custom hemp fabric blends based on your end use
• Support enzyme wash, reactive dye, and resin coating
• Allow low MOQs starting at 300m for sampling or small batch orders
• Ship pre-shrunk, colorfast-tested rolls ready for production

Hemp Fabric Has Drawbacks—but They’re Manageable

Yes, hemp has downsides. It’s coarse, it wrinkles, it costs more than cotton. But with the right strategy, blends, and finishing, you can unlock its sustainability value without sacrificing quality or comfort.

For eco-driven brands, hemp still offers one of the best long-term textile choices, if you know how to handle it.

Looking to source high-performance hemp fabric with custom specs?Contact SzoneierFabrics today to:

• Get free samples and fabric testing reports
• Explore custom hemp blends with faster delivery
• Access low-MOQ ordering for startup or premium lines
• Receive expert design support for fashion, bags, or home goods

Let’s build greener, better textiles—without compromise.